A gust of wind hits me and, two seconds later, a tent blows by on its way into the lake. Stepping out of the canoe to find a portage trail, I decide I don’t need my bear spray. If you’re travelling in bear country, always carry bear spray. I know someone who used bear spray, successfully, on a muskox. Help will come and find you more quickly if folks know where you’re going, who you’re with and when you’re expected back.