From when I first started reviewing, 14 years ago, I have always insisted that Dubai needs modern Emirati restaurants for the dining scene to be taken seriously on the global culinary map. The PR is quick to point out in an email: “While it is not authentic Emirati cuisine, the food served reimagines Emirati-inspired cuisine through a modern lens and while embracing global influences and celebrating local craftsmanship.” In fact, the consultant chef and a poster child for Emirati cooks, the talent that is Sahar Parham Al Awadhi did explain in an interview for my Conde Nast Traveler USA, UK & Middle East feature end of last year that the menu weaves in “Indian, Levantine and Mediterranean flavours” which she grew up with.