Houstonians eat pho for breakfast as eagerly as they do past midnight, in suburban strip mall restaurants and banquet halls and at backyard pop-ups. No matter the variations, pho in America serves as a connection to home for the Vietnamese diaspora. As award-winning food writer Andrea Nguyen wrote in The Pho Cookbook, the national dish of Vietnam “is about tradition as much as it is about change.” Nowhere is this more true than in Houston. Hương SenThe bowl of Pho Chay, vegeratian pho, at Huong Sen. It’s more layered and complex than many beef versions that simmer for hours.