I know food lovers in Hong Kong who turn up their noses at sizzling rice dishes, saying they are for tourists. There is something rather showy about them: in restaurants, it is tableside service, with the waiter presenting two platters – one with the rice cakes, the other with meat or seafood in a runny sauce. The saucy food is poured over the rice cakes to create steam and a loud sizzle that makes other diners look over to see what’s going on. But the fact it is showy doesn’t mean it can’t be...