Drain, briefly rinse with cool water to remove any excess starch, and return potatoes to warm pot (off heat) to dry while you heat the milk mixture. Pass hot potatoes through ricer or food mill into a large bowl (cold potatoes will become gummy; ricer will catch potato skins, remove and discard as needed if they start to block grate). Editor’s note: This mashed potato recipe was first printed in our November 2017 issue as “Ultra-Creamy Mashed Potatoes;” it has been updated for style.