Walking up the stairs to Pandeli, from the vaulted gatehouse of the Spice Bazaar below, is an experience in itself as you follow the famous, and much-photographed, turquoise tiles. Courtesy Telezzüz Courtesy Telezzüz Telezzüz is vegan, but there is little of the earnestness the word can sometimes imply – here, vegetables are fermented, smoked, fried, pickled and coaxed into deep, savoury sauces, while mushrooms turn up as garum and ketchup and artichokes might arrive crisp from the fryer with tarator.