It’s dressed with neon signs, polished concrete and leather booths, but the city branch of this barbecue king stands out for quality meat. The brick-red depths of kimchi-jjigae provide sour-spicy contrast to smoky meat, while another side of the chewy rice cakes tteokbokki baked with stringy mozzarella adds textural intrigue to your spread. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.