The brass ring on the door is the first clue that something has changed. For chef-proprietor Vicky Lau, whose Tate Dining Room has embarked on its third major incarnation in Sheung Wan, this relocation is less a change of address than a complete distillation of her craft. “When I walked in, I thought, wow, the ceiling is so high and beautiful,” Lau says. “My heart really wanted to stay in Sheung Wan … having your own style is actually quite special. To translate her vision into physical architecture, Lau partnered with New York and Shanghai-based designer Chris Shao.