Twelve hours into this trip, on a main road I could not name if you paid me, my perfect record went in the bin. I hold a valid Australian motorbike licence and have ridden most of my adult life, so the helmet was the only thing letting me down. He landed on 1.25 million rupiah, about 100 Australian dollars, for the crime of enjoying the breeze in my ginger hair. A Japanese rider was filmed being stopped over his headlights and asked for a million rupiah. The actual helmet fine is closer to 250,000 rupiah, and the million figure usually belongs to riding without a licence, which was never me.