Standing room only among wine glasses, water glasses, sunglasses, juice glasses. A platter of summer tomatoes, tuna-belly conserva, shaved onion, and punchy olives arrives where it cannot possibly fit. Across Spain, San Juan welcomes summer with infernos and midnight rituals. Alicante has music for lunch, music for dancing, music for parades. “That will welcome summer,” he told me, “and will give you strength and good luck for the whole of the year.”