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A maverick chef lands in an Alice Waters kitchen. And the food is better than ever
['Restaurant Critic', 'Bill Addison Is The Restaurant Critic Of The Los Angeles Times. He Is Recipient Of The Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award The James Beard Foundation', 'Among Numerous Other Accolades. Addison Was Previously National Critic For Eater', 'Held Food Critic Positions At The San Francisco Chronicle', 'The Dallas Morning News', 'Atlanta Magazine.']
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“I’ve never wanted to have another restaurant — and I don’t have another restaurant,” Waters told my colleague Stephanie Breijo when Lulu opened in November 2021.
Tanis, up for a new project as the world emerged from the pandemic, agreed to relocate to Los Angeles.
Jesse McBride, director of operations at Lulu restaurant, gives a visitor a cup of coffee during Lulu’s early days in November 2021.
Omelet crespéus, based on a recipe by winemaker Lulu Peyraud, the namesake of Lulu restaurant inside the Hammer Museum in Westwood.
(Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)Did I still look for hints of Clark’s distinct personality to burst through on the menu?