“I’ve never wanted to have another restaurant — and I don’t have another restaurant,” Waters told my colleague Stephanie Breijo when Lulu opened in November 2021. Tanis, up for a new project as the world emerged from the pandemic, agreed to relocate to Los Angeles. Jesse McBride, director of operations at Lulu restaurant, gives a visitor a cup of coffee during Lulu’s early days in November 2021. Omelet crespéus, based on a recipe by winemaker Lulu Peyraud, the namesake of Lulu restaurant inside the Hammer Museum in Westwood. (Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times)Did I still look for hints of Clark’s distinct personality to burst through on the menu?