This past Friday, August 7, marked the release of Tony, Matthew Johnson’s sketch of a young Anthony Bourdain (played with an appealing mix of wide-eyed naiveté and utter insouciance by Dominic Sessa) as he cut his teeth at a ramshackle restaurant in Provincetown, Massachusetts, in the 1970s. The news peg for Stone’s story was the development of Bourdain Market, envisioned as a global food hall at New York City’s Pier 57, on West 15th Street. Though the project fell apart even before Bourdain’s death by suicide in 2018, its concept would form the basis for Urban Hawker, a haven for Singaporean street food on West 50th Street that shuttered only last month. Anthony Bourdain is already sitting in a corner booth when I walk into Sakagura, a Japanese bar in the basement of an office building in midtown Manhattan. If anybody is allowed to show up late for a night of sake and sashimi, it’s Bourdain.