The name means “Mother’s Kitchen,” and there’s something to that: this is home cooking scaled up, not restaurant food dressed down. The egg balado arrives glossy and fierce with chili, and the fried chicken is spiced through rather than just seasoned on the surface. A whole piece of fried chicken smashed flat and pestle full of raw sambal, so the chili paste works its way into every crack in the crust. Kwetiaw Goreng (wide rice noodles, wok-charred), Soto Mie (a turmeric-gold noodle soup), and Mie Ayam Bakso (chicken and meatball noodles). None of which made it onto our table this time but all of which are standard bearers of Indonesian street food, and worth a return trip on their own.