Nevertheless, it remains a living town, where locals go about their business among the babel of tourists, and laundry criss-crosses the narrow streets. Walk past locals chatting beside their motorbikes and enter the pedestrian Old Town through the Sea Gate beneath its Venetian lion. Once re-caffeinated, walk through pretty St Luke’s Square to Trg od Drva, or Wood Square. Here you can mount the ramparts or, if the heat permits, climb to the fortress for exceptional views over the town and bay. Consecrated in 1166, the cathedral contains a splendid 15th-century gilded altarpiece and a 14th-century Romanesque-Gothic ciborium above the main altar, supported by red-marble columns and carved with scenes from the life and martyrdom of St Tryphon.