Pieter Mulier has developed one of the most distinctive design languages in Paris, his Alaïa falling somewhere between organic and futuristic, each gesture as decisive and dramatic as a slashed Fontana canvas. The monitors were reflected in the low, mirrored ceiling and broadcast closeup footage of the models’ faces as they strolled out. He used only four materials – cotton, python, leather, silk – and only textures for embellishment: tassels, fringe, and pleating. You could see the woman in it.”Perhaps a little less so in his swaddling cocoons, which resembled those compression blankets meant to help alleviate anxiety. Loaded with fashion thrills, this show worked a similar magic.