It was the ideal setting for Institution by Galib Gassanoff to make its Copenhagen debut, in celebration of the Milan-based designer’s Zalando Visionary Award win. “I grew up surrounded by these carpets and we never walked on them with shoes,” said Gassanoff. The collection was peppered with reminders of home, but Gassanoff managed to create a kinship with Danish fashion too. A pleated version fanned out from the waist through rounded shoulders, while a gauzy cardigan version was semi-sheer and slouchy. Including them—subverting them—was a subtle nod to the political situation in Georgia, where repression has reared its head in recent years, said Gassanoff.