With Proof, Fish adds something distinctive, heartfelt and appealing to that collection. Proof isn’t an over-the-top grilled cheese bar, but the chef’s penchant for taking familiar foods and pushing them to the edges of conformity remains. The aptly named Gonzo ($19) combines citrus-braised and smoked pork, smoked pineapple slaw, Oaxacan cheese, fresh herbs and that earthy bean paste. The neighborhood tavern doesn’t need 50 different bottles and cans, but rather a rotating selection of local gems on tap. Proof Public House4116 Lorain Ave., Cleveland; 216-644-4292; proofcleveland.comSubscribe to CLE Bites, Doug Trattner’s weekly food newsletter.