This is part of a series that celebrates border towns: the world's most vibrant cultural crossroads—and its most contested frontiers. exclaims my host, Reimi Kerdt, “This is a traditional Seto smoke sauna. I’ve come to Setomaa, southeast Estonia, 65 miles south of the country’s second city, Tartu, and up against the border with Russia. “Most Estonians are Lutheran,” explains Helen Külvik, a Setomaa native and local guide, “which has its origins in Germany. She goes on to explain that while Setomaa is spread across both Estonia and Russia, when the Soviet Union ended, the new border split Setomaa in two, and separating people from their ancestral lands.