From left: A professional skier takes on a downhill run in the Andes mountains near Bariloche; Refugio Frey, one of several ski huts in the region. From the top of a lift, the three of us descended 4,800 feet into a ravine that, over the course of two hours, funneled us to Refugio Frey. From left: The entrance to Refugio Frey; the author (right) looking at a terrain map with guide Juano (left). Refugio Frey lit up at night. We fell into a pattern of sleeping late, skiing late, and eating late as the snow kept getting better and deeper.