Hampstead, Chelsea, Chiswick, St John’s Wood: all would be lucky to have even one restaurant that would be an 8/10 in Hackney. Here, there are some absolute giants (my theory is that Wandsworth is more right-wing-coded, and right-wingers are happier to do the three-course-three-bottles thing). No such problems at Rosina, which sees Byatt trying Italian food. An attention-seeking white risotto with an egg yolk (£20) is good, but more enjoyable to look at than eat (rice just too soft). Better was mezze maniche with a red veal, pork and beef ragù (£20), which, interestingly, seemed to have been baked in an oven.