The outgoing tide reveals golden beaches and land bridges to islands that suddenly feel close. A growing weariness of budget flights led me here – and demand for no-fly holidays appears to be on the rise. It’s warm enough for a dip in the seawater pool at Bon Secours beach or a stroll along the 3km sweep of Grande Plage du Sillon. Beyond its beaches, Saint-Malo has another draw. Book in hand, she leads me through the gateway to Plage du Môle, the beach where Marie-Laure, the blind protagonist, first encountered the sea’s roar.