Merchant Roots chef-owner Ryan Shelton is a fellow mayo hater, tracing his repulsion to a 1980s beauty fad. All through the World Cup, I warily eyed how ranch dressing, a fusion of mayonnaise and buttermilk, threatened to become a totem of American culture for visiting Europeans. When it comes to ranch, Shelton is unequivocal: “Ranch is gross.” The theme of Merchant Roots’ next menu is, fittingly enough, acquired tastes. But I know I’ve had mayonnaise more than three times, and my mind is made up.