Watching “Tony,” Matt Johnson’s biopic about the young Anthony Bourdain and the season he spent in Provincetown working in a restaurant kitchen for the first time, I couldn’t help but wonder what Bourdain himself would have made of the movie. To me, if an Anthony Bourdain biopic can’t clear the bar called “Bourdain would have liked it,” it’s probably not a good movie. “Tony” has been framed as the origin story of how Anthony Bourdain became Anthony Bourdain. But one of the many things that Matt Johnson, the director of “Blackberry” and “Nirvana The Band the Show the Movie,” understands is that Anthony — or, as he called himself then, Tony — already was Anthony Bourdain. In “Tony,” he’s a lot more innocent, but the story is built around a terrifically layered irony.