“The first time I put amatriciana on the menu at Tiella I was incredibly nervous,” says Dara Klein. “Speak to any Roman and they are deeply protective of their pasta, perhaps because so much of the world has taken their culinary ideas for a spin. While the pasta is cooking, add the pecorino to the sauce and reduce the heat to low. Drain the pasta and immediately add it to the sauce along with a few tablespoons of the pasta water. To serve, sprinkle with the crispy guanciale and some extra pecorino.