Few cities wear their geography as naturally as Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, Australia’s smallest and southernmost state. The port city is framed by the River Derwent on one side and kunanyi/Mount Wellington on the other. Beyond Tasmania’s southern coast lies the cold expanse of the Southern Ocean, with Antarctica farther beyond. Yet when its wines are discussed, Burgundy is precisely the comparison that keeps surfacing. Dineen is the co-founder of Haddow + Dineen and a former chief winemaker at Josef Chromy Wines.