The 18th-century stone bridge of Kalogeriko, built during the Ottoman Empire, on a packhorse route through the mountains. I am in the charming village of Kapesovo in northern Greece’s Zagori region, around a day’s walk from the Albanian border, about to embark on a five-day hike. Zagori means ‘the place behind the mountains’ and it feels hidden – almost secret – and distinct from the rest of Greece. Kapesovo is one of 46 stone villages of the Zagori region, made rich in its heyday 200 years ago from trade with the Ottoman Empire. But as commerce declined, so did the population and, by the 1960s, most of the mountain-top villages were abandoned.