Go to San Sebastián and eat, they say. Try the pintxos and get a reservation at one of 10 Michelin-starred restaurants, they say. San Sebastián is a perfect storm of unbeatable raw materials from the chilly Bay of Biscay and the green foothills of the Pyrenees, chefs who’ve cooked in the world’s best kitchens, and an intense local devotion to good eating. After living and eating here for 15 years, I can attest that the family-run bars and restaurants of this city have democratised good eating at all hours. From hallowed haunts to the bar pouring natural wines where you’ll find top chefs on their days off, my list of the best restaurants in San Sebastián is a cross-section of the dining scene’s finest.