Campania’s fabulous produce of terra e mare makes it a gourmand’s paradise. Napoli and Campania’s ever-resourceful poor were once labeled mangiafoglie (leafeaters) because they subsided on foraging and cultivating their greens. Those vegetables are still stacked in the mercati today; menus feature broccoli, cicoria, cavolo, and scarole, making this a great place for vegetarians. The Cucina Napoletana dishes below owe their origins to poverty and nobility; the canny poor and their cucina povera combine with the influence of Naples’ countless foreign rulers, dynasties, and political compromises, from Greek settlers to the present-day Italian state. Nearly every mouthful has the mark of French and Spanish colonial and culinary influences, adding some spicy Arabic touches.