Near Buckingham Palace, the Goring Hotel is surely the finest small family hotel in London. Churchill sometimes used the Goring during the war and Kate, now Princess of Wales, stayed there on the night before her wedding. The right wine merchants can provide such bottles, if you search; fine restaurants, hardly ever. But the Goring is a place to go for a treat: let the plastic suffer. But we agreed the Goring was an admirable adjunct of the Buck-house kitchen.