How the 1990s shaped London’s restaurant revolutionLondon used to be a culinary laughing stock. Andrew Turvil, restaurant critic and former editor of The Good Food Guide, tells us how that all changed in the 1990s in today’s NotebookThe 1990s restaurant revolution that shaped London for goodHave you noticed how stories about the 1990s seem to be everywhere right now? London entered the 21st century emboldened by a restaurant revolution which made anything seem possible. Before the 1990s restaurant revolution, chefs were a bit of a mystery, and fine dining an exclusive form of alchemy. Andrew Turvil is the author of Blood, Sweat and Asparagus Spears: The Story of the 1990s Restaurant Revolution (out 25 September 2025, Elliott & Thompson), former editor of The Good Food Guide and a restaurant critic