PHOTOS: ELEANOR HUGHESI’m loath to leave Solomon Islands’ isolated Nggatirana Island’s white sand beach, crystal-clear sea, coral reefs and population of three — that I’ve seen — for its largest island, Guadalcanal, and capital, Honiara, population about 116,000. A room devoted to The Tensions details the 1998-2003 chaos after settlers from nearby Malaita Island were evicted by Guadalcanal indigenous villagers. Men fashion sago palm leaves, bamboo and lawyer cane vine into roofing; women weave fine, stiff strands of the vine or coconut palm spines into baskets. Left behind across the island are battlefield sites, memorials and relics, including wrecks to dive. Then there are beaches to the west with rainbow-coloured coral to snorkel, a boutique cocoa plantation, multi-day hiking across the island.