The Yaal Utzil cenote is one of many along the Camino del Mayab, a 68-mile (110km) walking and cycling trail near Mérida on Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula. I was walking it over five days with a couple from Hong Kong and our guide, Misa Poot. Rachel Dixon jumps into a cenote on Mexico’s Yucatán peninsula – videoAlberto showed me around Mérida, the “white city”, and introduced me to Maya history and culture. Misa and Humberto, both in their 20s, were lively company, introducing us to Mexico’s melodramatic telenovelas – Abyss of Passion! I had been prepared for a long, hot walk punctuated with cooling dips, but the Camino del Mayab is far more than that.