For Italians born after boom years, carbonara has an unalterable set of ingredients: pork jowl, Roman pecorino cheese, eggs and pepper. The oldest was printed in Chicago in 1952 and featured Italian bacon, not pork jowl. Pork jowl didn’t come to replace bacon until as recently as the 1990s. Global consumers applaud the celebrity experts of Italian food who churn out books, podcasts and TV shows in an often obsessive pursuit of “authenticity”. We both love and hate the caricature of the obsessively purist Italian chef.