Recently, I was in a small village in northern Sweden, all lakes and forest and red-roofed houses, and asked a young local where people met up. We’ve seen a flurry of London boozers reopening recently that have kept all the atmosphere intact but woven in excellent restaurants, such as Ben Tish at The Barley Mow, Hauser & Wirth’s The Audley and, best of all, Henry Harris’s Racine 2.0 at Clerkenwell’s The Three Compasses. But another star of the show is the centrepiece wood-burning grill and oven at the far end of the dining room. Talking of which, most of the meat on the menu is sourced from Scottish estates, though butchered and aged in the meat room downstairs. No wonder it’s been drawing in Michelin chefs and curious tourists alike since it opened in November 2023.