Moments before Phan Huy’s inaugural show on the official Paris schedule kicked off, two rounds of cheers went up backstage. You May Also LikeAnother was an organza strewn with 3D-cut leaves, individually edged in tubular beads and stitched in place. A red dress that shivered with every move as Coco Rocha sashayed down the runway required around three months to create. Silhouettes hewed close to a classically Western take on couture, with fitted corsetry and opulent skirts, many with crinoline constructions. They were among the examples that telegraphed the brand’s intention of being “couture, but fun” that Doan shared backstage.