In the course of 20 years Copenhagen fashion week has become a fixture on the international scene, while at the same time becoming a regional hub for Nordic talent. For fall, Holzweiler, from Norway and returning after a two year absence, became the first brand to fill the homecoming slot on the fashion calendar. “We started in Oslo, but Copenhagen is where the international journey started,” creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler said on a call. In contrast, plissé dresses, and gowns with floating trains, felt out of place—more like a dream than a preserved memory, perhaps. Originating “from this cold country up North,” as Skappel Holzeiler put it, made the functional/technical garments especially convincing.