Inside Clarkston Union Bar & Kitchen, the air is a heady incense of bubbling sharp cheddar and wood-smoke, swirling toward the rafters of this 1840s church. You’ll slide into a pew booth, yes, the actual wooden rows, where the soft, kaleidoscopic glow of stained glass hits your pint glass just right. The natural light filtering through the stained glass adds a soft, ethereal glow that makes even the humblest comfort food look like a masterpiece. This small bit of patience pays off because you get the best angle on the stained glass and the room’s old sanctuary lines. The only real tradeoff is missing the stained glass glow.