: Ukrainian The Vogue tip : Forget its muddy connotations; Sino’s catfish is a wildly engaging and underseen gem. London isn’t exactly brimming with high-end, Ukrainian spots – but Sino would, surely, be an exemplar of the form even in Kyiv’s luxer neighbourhoods. : Modern European The Vogue tip : Ballast yourself with a bar-snack baguette; the merguez and frites is already revered.